What is the curl type system?
The curl type system — popularized by hairstylist André Walker — classifies hair into four main categories (1 through 4), each divided into three subcategories (a, b, c). Type 1 is completely straight. Type 4 is tightly coiled. The letters indicate how tight or loose the pattern is within each category.
| Type | Pattern | Description |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Straight | Flat, no wave or curl |
| 2 | Wavy | S-shaped waves, some frizz |
| 3 | Curly | Defined ringlets, springy |
| 4 | Coily | Tight coils or zig-zag pattern |
How to find your curl type at home
The most accurate way to identify your curl type is to look at your hair in its natural state — no heat, no product, freshly washed and air-dried.
- Wash your hair with a gentle, sulfate-free shampoo. Sulfate-free formulas (like Alcôve's hydrating shampoo) won't strip your natural texture.
- Apply only a lightweight conditioner, then rinse. Skip any styling products for this test — they change how your curl pattern looks.
- Let your hair air-dry completely. Resist the urge to touch it. Touching wet hair breaks the curl pattern.
- Look at the shape your hair naturally falls into. Compare what you see to the descriptions below.
Type 1 — Straight Hair
Straight hair has no wave or curl pattern. It tends to be shiny because natural oils from the scalp can travel down the hair shaft without obstruction.
- 1a — Very fine, flat, and silky. No texture whatsoever.
- 1b — Medium texture with some body and slight bends.
- 1c — Coarser, thicker straight hair that may resist styling.
Common concerns: Oiliness at the roots, lack of volume, limpness.
Type 2 — Wavy Hair (2a, 2b, 2c)
Wavy hair forms a loose, S-shaped pattern. It's not quite straight but doesn't form defined ringlets either. Type 2 is the most common type that people misidentify as straight — especially if they've been heat styling for years.
Fine, loose waves
Medium waves
Strong, coarser waves
Type 3 — Curly Hair (3a, 3b, 3c)
Type 3 hair forms springy, three-dimensional spirals. Unlike wavy hair, curls have a clear cylindrical or oval shape. Type 3 hair tends to be drier than types 1 and 2 because the curl pattern makes it harder for scalp oils to travel down the strand.
Large, loose ringlets
Medium, bouncy curls
Tight corkscrew curls
Type 4 — Coily Hair (4a, 4b, 4c)
Type 4 hair has the tightest curl patterns. The coils can be so tight that individual strands look almost zig-zagged when stretched. Despite what you might think, type 4 hair is not inherently fragile — but it does require consistent, intentional moisture retention because it's the most prone to dryness.
Soft, springy coils
Z-pattern coils
Tightly coiled, least defined pattern
Best routine approach for type 4 hair: The LOC method (Liquid → Oil → Cream) is popular for maximum moisture retention. Deep condition weekly, finger-detangle gently, and always style on soaking-wet hair.
What else affects your hair besides curl type?
Curl type is just the starting point. Two people can both have 3b curls and need completely different products based on these factors:
Porosity — How easily your hair absorbs and retains moisture.
- Low porosity: Repels water, needs heat to open the cuticle, light products work best
- High porosity: Absorbs water fast but loses it fast too, needs sealing products (oils, butters)
Density — How many strands you have per square inch.
- Fine/low density: Avoid heavy products that weigh hair down
- Thick/high density: Can handle richer, heavier formulas
Elasticity — How much your hair stretches before breaking. Good elasticity = healthy hair. Poor elasticity often means protein is needed.
How to build a routine for your curl type
Here's a simple starting routine matched to each type. The universal golden rule: apply all styling products to soaking-wet hair, not damp hair. Water is your curl's best friend.
| Curl type | Wash frequency | Must-have products | Key technique |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2a | Every 2–3 days | Lightweight mist, light gel | Scrunch in, air dry |
| 2b | Every 2–3 days | Curl activator, light cream | Apply soaking wet, diffuse |
| 2c | 1–2× per week | Leave-in, anti-frizz serum, gel | Layer products, plop dry |
| 3a | 1–2× per week | Rich conditioner, curl cream | Soaking wet application, diffuse |
| 3b | 1× per week | Leave-in + cream + gel stack | Section styling, scrunch out crunch |
| 3c | 1× per week | Deep mask + gel | LOC method, microfiber towel |
| 4a–4c | 1× per week or less | Leave-in, cream, sealing oil | LOC/LCO method, protective styles |
Frequently asked questions
Can your curl type change over time?
Yes. Hormonal changes (pregnancy, menopause, puberty), heat damage, chemical treatments, and even significant dietary changes can alter your curl pattern. Hair that was straight in your teens can become wavy in your 30s, and vice versa.
Why does my hair look different in humidity?
Humidity causes the hair shaft to swell as it absorbs moisture from the air — especially in high-porosity hair. The result is frizz or an expanded curl pattern. Anti-humidity products like a gel or frizz serum applied before humidity hits create a barrier that slows this process.
I have multiple curl types — which routine should I follow?
Follow the routine for your tightest curl type. Coarser textures need more moisture, and giving your whole head the richer routine won't hurt your looser sections.
What's the difference between wavy and curly hair?
Wavy hair (type 2) forms a flat, S-shaped pattern and tends to lie closer to the head. Curly hair (type 3) forms three-dimensional spirals or ringlets that have volume in all directions. The simplest test: if a single strand curls around your finger on its own when wet, it's curly. If it just makes a loose S, it's wavy.
Are sulfate-free shampoos better for curly hair?
Yes, for most curl types. Sulfates are harsh detergents that strip natural oils — and curly hair is already prone to dryness. Sulfate-free formulas clean gently while preserving moisture and your natural curl pattern. All Alcôve shampoos are sulfate-free.
How often should I deep condition?
It depends on your curl type: Type 2 (wavy) benefits from deep conditioning every 2–4 weeks. Type 3 (curly) should deep condition every 1–2 weeks. Type 4 (coily) benefits most from weekly treatments.
What does 4c hair look like?
4c hair has the tightest coil pattern — so tight that individual strands may look almost zig-zagged when stretched. Without product, 4c hair has very little visible curl definition. It appears as a dense, soft, full texture and shrinks 50–75% when dry compared to its stretched length.
Find your perfect Alcôve routine
Every Alcôve product is formulated for real texture — curly, wavy, and coily — with clean, vegan ingredients at professional quality. Now that you know your curl type, let's build your routine.
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